He wants me to pay to get the bike released through the border. I tell him I already paid the tax on the way in and make it quite plain that I think he is ripping me off! He says it is 4000 ogs, about ?8 to stamp the bike out and refuses to do anything until I pay. He has the same big book as the chap on the way in. So I make him write it all in there and give me its receipt, not the photocopied one he wants to use. He writes the bikes exit in the passport, stamps it and I pay. I still think he ripped me off and I now know the guy on the way in took me for 800 ogs.

Ok, as I leave an old fella with a dodgy receipt book want 500 ogs for tax to the community of D’iago. Hahahaha, what ever. At lest his receipt is right, ?1 handed over. The only part where I don’t mind being fleeced, good luck to him. Right, into the Police office. Nice chap, does the paperwork and stamps the passport. Then asks for 10 euros. I say no, he asks again. I tell him I never pay the police anything. He smiles, shakes my hand and tells me to go. As I leave I expect the guy at the barrier to try it, but no he just opens it and I head into no mans land. So out of Mauritania for 9500 ogs about ?19 pounds, ?4 of which I think is legit.

I get my phone out to check the conversion, much to the crowds amusement

I hide up and put $50 into my sleeve, I think I may need them. Right across the bridge to the barrier and guess what a toll! I try to play dumb and give the chap 65, but no way is he having that. I have 6200 in my wallet, so I show him that and say now what? Hahahaha , what a surprise, he says ok and the barrier is lifted. A con of course, but they know I have no choice. Up to the border police with a chap who just doesn’t believe I have no money. The guy stamps the passport and asks for 10 euros. I say again that I never pay the police and he backs down.

There is no ATM here and only a few people. But most noticeable only one fixer-hustler. I have the carnet, but as expected the border guard says he can do nothing with it. I have to get the Passavant from him and take it to Dakar in 2 days. He wants 5000 ogs for it. I say no it should be free due to the carnet or at the very least only 2500 ogs. We basically have a row, he gets quite worked up and I leave. I talk with the fixer outside about it and the assurance. I don’t know what to do about it and that they are hot on it for Senegal. I want to wait and get it later in St Louis.

At his argued about bad exchange rate ($1 for 200cfa not 280 as the phone says), $80 dollars, about ?50 will get the Passavant and the fixer will escort me to St Louis and get me the months insurance for Senegal and the Gambia

But it is getting late and starting to get dark. Hmmm, not too good. So of course the fixer can help me. I have no idea how much he is over charging me but what the hell it gets me away from the border, into town and gets the insurance sorted. There is also a Mauritanian chap with the car for whom he Affairdating.com is doing the same thing. So we all drive together. True to his word we get to the assurance office which is closed, he is straight on the phone and a chap turns up.